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Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Colloidal Silver Color Samples
« Last post by Georgesorma on Today at 02:34:17 AM »
Насладитесь Вашим отпуском во абсолютной грани также приобретете красочные память также несколько позитивных чувств во обожаемом городке! Подберите наиболее увлекательное направленность с целью себе!
turteka travel
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Colloidal Silver Production / Re: 3D Printing of Production Vessel Lid
« Last post by Pemf silver on May 09, 2021, 05:05:22 PM »
An oversized plastic lid with a Wire terminal works great as well ..
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Colloidal Gold Production / Re: Making Colloidal Gold by electrolysis
« Last post by kephra on May 09, 2021, 12:14:36 AM »
I tried this years ago and it didn't work in any reasonable time.  I even tried much higher voltage (150 volts). 

I'm too old to wait 18 hours for an unknown strength of CG.  I don't even buy green bananas.

Whats wrong with making it with food?  That's what we do with the electrolysis process. 

I can make a quart in 7 minutes, and know the ppm exactly using gold chloride, maltodextrin and sodium carbonate.  The chloride is removed, maltodextrin is food, and sodium carbonate is a common food additive which I'm sure you have consumed many times.  This is the fastest and most accurate method.

Show us the pictures.

Quote
Just remember like Colloidal Silver the full color normally takes a day until the solution reached its final color.
Not if you make it right.
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Colloidal Gold Production / Making Colloidal Gold by electrolysis
« Last post by Wilbur on May 08, 2021, 10:42:30 PM »
I wanted to start making CGold but did not want to go the chemical method.  Since making CSilver is a straight forward no chemicals, electrical electrolysis process, I figured CGold could be made the same way..... IT WORKS and no chemicals.  Just pure gold and distilled water with NOTHING else added.  (you can speed things up a bit making both Colloidal Silver and CG by putting a couple of ozs of your previous batch into the new batch.  That small amount let the process start much faster.... again without adding chemicals.

I have been making colloidal silver for years first with the 3-9v battery setup and now I am using a 0-40 VDC power supply set to 35VDC.

This process makes beautiful clear red Colloidal Gold right in the quart jar. (exactly like making CSilver)  Just remember like Colloidal Silver the full color normally takes a day until the solution reached its final color.

Couple of differences.  I takes about 12-18 hours or so to make a quart of CG.  It is just a much slower process.  You need to heat the distilled water and KEEP it hot.  I use a small hot plate on Med.  Works fine.

I could not find gold rods anywhere so I just use a pure gold Canadian Maple Leaf coin as my gold source and a piece of #12 copper wire as my negative.  I noticed the gold was "tarnishing" after a few batches so with some polish it looks almost like brand new so no damage to the Maple Leaf. 

Again this is PURE colloidal gold using no chemicals in the process.  (Have pictures but to big to post- sorry)

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I just put this one together, now I have to adjust and test ..

Thank you !

The Dr Bob Beck Constant Current Colloidal Silver Generator circuit works well just takes a little longer
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Colloidal Silver Production / Re: 3D Printing of Production Vessel Lid
« Last post by Gene on May 08, 2021, 07:30:18 PM »
Though you need the appropriate tools to do so, the best I've seen is a small piece of plastic (scrap from the cutting board) with a hole in the center slightly larger than the diameter of the wire with a threaded hole in the side you install a set screw so you can gently tighten it to "capture" the wire and prevent it from moving.  The glue or secure this to the lid somehow.  For HDPE you might want to drill a couple small holes straight down through it and partially into the lid to screw it down since there isn't much in the way of glue or adhesive that will glue HDPE to itself.

If you use a knurled knob or a set screw that sticks out, you can just clip to it with alligator clips once you adjust the depth of the silver wire or copper cathode in the water though the only issue with this is that if you need to adjust it you have to remove the alligator clip.  Better probably to make the wire a bit longer so it sticks out the top more and just alligator clip that up far enough you still have some room to adjust the wire without having to remove the clip.

As long as you use a deep enough thread set screw (fewer turns is usually a coarser thread - like 24 threads per inch as opposed to 32 (6-32).

There are lots of ways to do it. This is just another to add to the list.

It doesn't have to look pretty. It just has to work (wink).
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Glad to be of assistance.

Just remember.  The TO-92 LM317LZ part is the one you want.  It has a low end regulation limit around 1-2ma (datasheet says 2.5ma minimum but thats guaranteed - for sure it'll go lower than this though I can't tell you how much and it'll vary a little from part to part since its not a guaranteed/tested spec).

The TO-220 part (LM317T) isn't guaranteed to go under 10ma. You<might> get 5ma out of it but that might be pushing it and thats generally not a good enough range if you want to build you're own limiter (5-6-7ma minimum current).

10-12V across the cell (more if you're stirring but I can't tell you how much more because I don't own a heated stir plate) plus 3V minimum for the LM317 to operate plus some safe area (wiggle room) so 15V + maybe 5V+ on top of this?

I use a 19.3V old laptop charger.  They put out 3-5 amps (this one is 5 amps - 5000 milliamps) but the limiter doesn't draw any current thats not flowing through the load. Its a series device.  So if you're running at 10ma, thats what you need but obviously you can't buy anything that puts out only that low a current.  Just about anything will put out plenty of current.  You just need to make sure you get enough voltage into the thing.

The LM317LZ can run up to 32volts.  You don't need that. 24 to me would seem plenty but if you're stirring and/or running higher current (I run 10ma,  no stirring), 19.3V may not be enough.  If you're buying something, go for 24-28-30V. - whatever you can find inexpensively if even you don't have something lying around the house already.  It doesn't have to be pretty. Its just gotta work (wink).

Keep us posted. We always love to hear of success stories.
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Amazing, perfect explanation. I'm ready to go. Thank you so much.

I found a local place that has the components and am ordering today.

Really appreciate the time and help.

For the power supply.
What would be the best range to run it.
24v 3a? (does wattage matter)
Or seeing that we are using so low a amperage is something like 500ma output enough?

I'm getting another adaptor, and they have a huge range of options. Want to get the most compact I can.

Excited to now mostly understand this part of it!
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Colloidal Silver Production / Re: 3D Printing of Production Vessel Lid
« Last post by cfnisbet on May 08, 2021, 09:34:45 AM »
One way is to suspend them through the hole and then attach a small clothes peg or other clip to the electrode to stop it falling down through the hole. Or use a crocodile clip for the same purpose. Or a dab of silver solder on the electrode, applied above the lid,
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Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Colloidal Silver Color Samples
« Last post by cfnisbet on May 08, 2021, 09:31:41 AM »
The silver water I made without using reducing agents for more use, thanks to your warnings, there is no bitter and metallic taste anymore ... but when it cools down, the tone darkens a little after 2-3 hours, is this normal?
Yes, it's normal. In theory, the reduction should be complete immediately after the run, but I have had this happen on occasion.
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