Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]
92
Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Mold on colloidal silver
« Last post by kephra on February 02, 2024, 02:05:27 PM »
Thank you for the guidelines. I have been carrying out tests for a year, doing university research, as I am a chemical engineering student, I have no intention of selling colloidal silver but rather creating scientific articles.
Seems to me that a university chemical engineering student would be able to figure out simple dilutions, and also have access to better measuring devices than a medicine dropper and graduated cylinder.
Quote from: dianest
The video that contains the amber bottle is the finished colloidal silver itself, it is not the reducing agent (it is stored in the refrigerator and I remove it when I use it),
YOU implied that the amber bottle contained the reducing agent.
Quote from: dianest
In my country Brazil there is no Karo, so I use corn glucose. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GkjWB4ohvVrzsnJo9Fq4pVdp0-iDBkuk/view?usp=drive_link
Quote from: dianest
I am just assuming that creates mold in my colloidal silver, because after two weeks this substance starts to appear..
In engineering, its best not to assume.
Quote from: dianest
... I specified the link for each step. Please, try viewing again, as the file I follow is also there.
No, your 'instruction file' is not accessible.
93
Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Mold on colloidal silver
« Last post by dianast on February 02, 2024, 12:27:01 PM »
Thank you for the guidelines. I have been carrying out tests for a year, doing university research, as I am a chemical engineering student, I have no intention of selling colloidal silver but rather creating scientific articles.

The video that contains the amber bottle is the finished colloidal silver itself, it is not the reducing agent (it is stored in the refrigerator and I remove it when I use it), I am just assuming that creates mold in my colloidal silver, because after two weeks this substance starts to appear..
The second video shows how I carry out the complete electrolysis process. I was unable to archive the videos or the material here on the forum, perhaps due to the size of the files, so I put them on Google Drive. I specified the link for each step. Please, try viewing again, as the file I follow is also there.


Reaffirming, my intention is to carry out a study and as I mentioned, even carrying out 1L of 10ppm or 1L of 60ppm, the same problem occurs.
94
Yeah, 20 PPM is no good to gauge quality with because even if the product's bad, if it's diluted that much it won't be very turbid unless you really messed something up. Whereas the difference at high PPM can be night and day. With cinnamon tincture you should be able to go fairly high and still get a clean colloid. I often did 200, possibly 300 at some point, I forget.
95
Quote
Oh, another thing. Cinnamon is a fast reducer. You can run the process cold. Limiting heat results in less turbidity for me usually.

Also, as an example, for 1 litre of 200 PPM Colloidal Silver I use about 120 drops of cinnamon tincture.
My tincture is made using 3g cinnamon in 100ml 70% grain alcohol, then left to extract for a month.

To gauge your tincture, I would make a small batch of 20 PPM without a reducer, then add the tincture per-drop while stirring it cold. Find the point where it does not change color any further, add a safety margin, and there's your estimate.

Thank you Salty. I will definitely try that. The last batch of 100ppm I made turned out fairly turbid in concentrate but cleared up to almost perfectly clear when I reduced it to 20PPM with distilled water. Ok for external use for me but I want better quality than that.
96
Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Mold on colloidal silver
« Last post by kephra on February 01, 2024, 09:52:44 PM »
Come on, about the dropper it was measured using a laboratory beaker. And I'm attaching the video (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p_Or91sz3xrHPb0tVOmuXgaj1F2Uczlv/view?usp=drive_link) I made starting from the first meniscus, since I'm so obsessed with not knowing how to read the test tube.
That is a very inaccurate way of calibrating a dropper.  Why don't you try measuring 100 drops to check if you get 10ml.  Better still, weigh 10 drops and see if you get 1 gram.
Quote
Regarding dilution, I make 1L of 40ppm, when diluted in 4L of water, the total sum of initial 1L (of silver) + 4L of pure water = 5L. This is wrong? So do I only have to add 3L of water?
Do the math as I showed you.  You add 3 liters not 4.
Quote
And regardless of whether I'm making a mistake with the dilution, even making 1L of silver with 10ppm, the gunk also grows!
In my country Brazil there is no Karo, so I use corn glucose. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GkjWB4ohvVrzsnJo9Fq4pVdp0-iDBkuk/view?usp=drive_link)
Your glucose is contaminated... you can see that in your video.  And why do you think it is mold?
Quote
I don't understand the difficulty of helping by saying the correct amount, if I'm wrong, why not help by mentioning the correct amount?
The correct amount of sodium carbonate solution is 1.0 ml per liter of water.  Not 10 to 20 drops.  This has been stated over and over on this forum.

If you are serious about making quality Colloidal Silver, then you really need a current limiter. They are easy to make and many forum members have built them for a few $.  Without the limiter, you cannot set both current and cell voltage at the same time.

Again, provide the link to the instructions file you have referenced.
97
Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Mold on colloidal silver
« Last post by Gene on February 01, 2024, 09:35:11 PM »
I won't get into the discussion as there are more than enough others already involved but I am quite curious as to your obsession with 10PPM Colloidal Silver.

Its NOT about PPM. Its about milligrams of silver. PPM just gives you a concentration in solution but what matters is how much weight of silver you're ingesting.

Colloidal Silver fights diseases where you need to raise the level in the blood (PPM) to somewhere around 4PPM.  Given an average human has about 5 liters of blood, to do the above requires ingesting about a liter of 20PPM though given we can't guarantee absorption rate, you probably would want to do that 2 days in a row to guarantee the level in your blood is at or above about 4PPM where you can then drop to taking about maybe 8-12oz of 20PPM a day for the remainder of a 10 day course (basically putting back what the body eliminates to keep the level at or above therapeutic level).

So 10PPM in the grand scheme of things isn't overly useful unless you like drinking a half gallon of it to help yourself.

20PPM isn't that much better.

I routinely make 120-160PPM gelcapped. I just dilute this 1:1 or 1:2 (Colloidal Silver:water) before ingesting so I don't "drowned" from ingesting as much water as I'd need to if it were 10-20PPM (wink) AND distilled water isn't, even in the US, what I'd call inexpensive so the higher concentration saves a lot of money for using that much less distilled to make the higher concentration and it provides you with a VERY compact storage (1 liter container of 160PPM is equivalent to 8 liters of 20PPM). No you do not have to dilute before ingesting with distilled. Plain old tap water is perfectly fine. Not for storage/manufacture (that HAS to be distilled) but for sure for consumption at the time of consumption tap water is perfectly fine as a diluent.  And then too, if you're ingesting it during or after a meal, for sure you've ingested a LOT of liquid so you may not even have to dilute the concentrate any - the liquid still in your stomach will do that for you without having to add any additional water.

Your links aren't accessible - requiring I log into google (I don't have an account nor do I want one).

BTW, glucose is glucose is glucose. If its glucose its devoid of any DNA nor plant matter and as such, its source (origin) - a.k.a the feedstock it was extracted from, isn't important.

The one issue I have had using glucose (others have reported the same thing) is that it can cause a slightly turbulent/cloudy product where the amount you need to use is TINY and hard to measure out.  Karo and maltodextrin produce rather clear product. I don't know about golden syrup (I don't even know if its available in the US) but that perhaps would be equivalent.

Pure glucose reduces VERY quickly and though I have no data to prove it, I am wondering if this might be a major constituent reason for the less clear result.

Karo is about 1/3 glucose, about 1/3 maltose and about 1/3 water but like most of this food grade stuff, its makup can be somewhat variable regardless what the label claims so using 10-20-30% more than what you believe you need to use is good practice. Using more reducer doesn't hurt anything.

Maltodextrin works equally as well though its longer chains of glucose and as such, since each chain only has 1 reducing group, the weight of malto you'd need to reduce whatever PPM of silver you're intending to reduce will be much higher. Given this, the density in solution will be higher and it will cause a slight color shift (just to warn you).  At 20PPM it will get a bit darker yellow (NOT brown) so don't let this scare you if you ever choose to try it.

Maltodextrin is nothing more than chains of glucose molecules. Each glucose molecule can reduce 1 silver oxide molecule (what IS is - silver oxide dissolved in water). Maltodextrin is some number of molecules of glucose with the reducing group of one grabbing the "tail" of another with the reducing group of that grabbing the "tail" of another where only one end of that long chain molecule has one active reducing group that can reduce 1 molecule of silver oxide so for using maltodextrin to reduce with, you need a noticeably higher weight of it compared to glucose to do the same reduction meaning there's much more "stuff" in solution and hence the slight color shift.  The advantage of maltodextrin is in making higher PPM non-gelcapped Colloidal Silver because Karo is only a sufficient stabilizer up to about 20PPM Colloidal Silver and is inadequate above this. Maltodextrin for all the extra "stuff" in solution for the need to use much more of it than Karo or glucose or others, its a much stronger stabilizer which is needed for higher PPM non-gelcapped Colloidal Silver production.  If the stabilizer isn't sufficient, over time, the silver will fall out of solution and collect on the bottom of the container.

If you're gelcapping, the gelatine is a powerful and more than sufficient stabilizer so you can reduce using anything you choose since the reducer isn't going to be the strong stabilizer.

Whats a stabilizer? When a molecule of reducer reduces a molecule of silver oxide (it basically rips the oxygen off a silver oxide molecule leaving pure silver behind), that now elemental silver floating in water HATES water (its hydrophobic) so the now spent (oxidized) reducer molecule crowds/coats the silver particle to protect it (a.k.a. stabilizing it and preventing it from sticking to other silver particles where if this happens the end result would be silver particles (macroparticles) that are too big to be absorbed).  At/below 20PPM.  Karo is more than sufficient a stabilizer. Above 20PPM, NOT (if you're making non-gelcapped).
99
Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Mold on colloidal silver
« Last post by dianast on February 01, 2024, 07:14:00 PM »
Come on, about the dropper it was measured using a laboratory beaker. And I'm attaching the video (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p_Or91sz3xrHPb0tVOmuXgaj1F2Uczlv/view?usp=drive_link) I made starting from the first meniscus, since I'm so obsessed with not knowing how to read the test tube.
Regarding dilution, I make 1L of 40ppm, when diluted in 4L of water, the total sum of initial 1L (of silver) + 4L of pure water = 5L. This is wrong? So do I only have to add 3L of water?
And regardless of whether I'm making a mistake with the dilution, even making 1L of silver with 10ppm, the gunk also grows!
In my country Brazil there is no Karo, so I use corn glucose. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GkjWB4ohvVrzsnJo9Fq4pVdp0-iDBkuk/view?usp=drive_link)

I don't understand the difficulty of helping by saying the correct amount, if I'm wrong, why not help by mentioning the correct amount?

FILE (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p_Or91sz3xrHPb0tVOmuXgaj1F2Uczlv/view?usp=drive_link)
100
Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Mold on colloidal silver
« Last post by wgpeters on February 01, 2024, 06:21:27 PM »
1ml was exactly 10 drops. So I don't know exactly what else I'm doing wrong!
I have never seen a dropper that drops .1ml per drop.  You do not use varying amounts of electrolyte to set the cell current.  You use a currrent limiter to set current, and cathode depth to set voltage. So I have to assume that you did not use the correct amount.  Otherwise, the pH will not be correct, and the reducing agent may not all be activated.  If you are not using the correct procedures, we cannot help you.
Quote
Using the C1xV1=C2V2 dilution calculation
40x1=10xV2 - V2=4L so I get 10ppm colloidal silver in 5L in total.
if a liter of 40ppm Colloidal Silver contains 40 mg of silver.  Adding water to make 5 liters total means you have 8mg silver per liter which is 8 ppm.  You should add water to make 4 liters which contain 10mg per liter which is 10 ppm.  You do not add 4 liters.
Quote
I used Karo with distilled water in equal parts for the reducer, and I have also used grape sugar, as I thought that any polysaccharide could be a good reducing agent. And they both grow this red goo.
I filtered it just to see if it would grow back after filtering, and yes the gunk comes back.
Ordinary table sugar is a polysaccharide (50% glucose, 50% fructose) and it definitely does not work. Cellulose is a polysaccharide and does not work.  I don't know who told you that, but they are feeding you BS.
Again, tell us where this 'file' is.  I definitely want to know so I can read it and correct any wrong information in it. 
Read the Articles!
Pages: 1 ... 8 9 [10]