Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
Colloidal Gold Production / Re: Complete supplies list and breakdown for a newbie
« Last post by Gene on January 13, 2021, 05:31:12 AM »
If you have gold chloride you only need a few other things, NO gold electrodes, NO heat (unless you want the CG to reduce a little quicker).

You just mix it up and let it sit and if you want to warm it to speed the reduction process a bit, you can do so in the microwave.

It couldn't be simpler.
Colloidal Silver Production / Is heat alone enough for gel capped 320ppm?
« Last post by Turbidaceous on January 13, 2021, 12:38:47 AM »
I am considering trying to make some high strength gel capped for consumption, but I have zero stirring. I only have my hotplate. Is this adequate to make 320ppm gel capped Colloidal Silver?
Colloidal Gold Production / Re: Complete supplies list and breakdown for a newbie
« Last post by Eugene on January 13, 2021, 12:25:01 AM »
I know where to get gold chloride and I know I need a power supply and a heating element but I don't know where to get gold electrodes or anything else like beakers and stirring rods or anything that may be necessary. Is this not the gold forum?
Colloidal Gold Production / Strange Reduction Color
« Last post by Year Zero on January 12, 2021, 10:01:26 PM »
After making many batches of CG and reducing with Karo alone,
and Maltodextrin alone, I decided to try Dextrose powder for fun.
Instead of the typical ruby red color, blue violet was the result.
I don't understand why.  Maybe Kephra can shed some light on this one.
When you hold the beaker to a strong light source, the blue violet color
is more visible.  See pics.
Colloidal Silver Production / Re: Question about soldering silver bar to silver rod
« Last post by cfnisbet on January 12, 2021, 08:35:43 PM »
Although emanwols is correct, if you want to solder the two together, then there are a number of ways of doing it;

You can use any method if you make sure that the joint does not touch the water, but there are those on the forum who feel that it is better to be certain about not letting the joint even become wet, and there is nothing wrong with being certain.

1) Use emanwols method and hammer the anode to the suspension wire, like riveting the joint.

2) If you want to solder the joint, it is possible to buy solder which is cerified as resulting in a joint which is .999 fine, like the two components. Jewellers must use these grades of solder, or their finished piece is not allowed to be hallmarked as pure silver, so this is a way round the problem.

3) Choose another method of suspending the anode from the electrode holder; some people have suggested pushing the anode through a plastic plate, others use a pair of plastic plates which grip the anode securely with an independent elecrical contact clipped to an area of the anode which is so far out of the water that it will remain dry.

If you want to be certain,
Colloidal Silver Production / Question about soldering silver bar to silver rod
« Last post by Browntw on January 12, 2021, 04:16:28 PM »
I want to solder a silver bar to a silver rod and was just wondering if it is OK to use the type of solder that you would use to solder copper pipes. The type is silver lead free solder that you would buy at home depot.
I have drilled a hole in the bar and fished the rod thru so now I just need something to make the rod more secure to the bar.
Since it will never touch the distilled water, I figured it was OK to use.
Colloidal Gold Production / Re: Complete supplies list and breakdown for a newbie
« Last post by cfnisbet on January 12, 2021, 01:06:53 PM »
Check the Colloidal Gold forum details for places to purchase Gold and Gold Chloride. The instructions are all in there.
Colloidal Gold Production / Re: High strength Colloidal Gold (660 ppm)
« Last post by cfnisbet on January 12, 2021, 01:05:35 PM »
I have some Gold Chloride which is years old. No real shelf life.

You need to know that the "regulations" force manufacturers to put a "shelf life" on almost everything, regardless of utility, and that the manufacturers are only too eager to comply because they hope that you will throw away perfectly good chemicals and then buy some more. Very few chemicals degrade in storage.

For instance, honey (that is, the real stuff, not the pretend versions sold in some places in the USA) has to have a shelf life on te jar in the UK/EU(SSR); but honey, seeds and other things have been found in rock tombs in Egypt and have been perfectly edible.

Lt Col Jeff copper (of Gunsite fame) used to opine that if you wanted to store a handgun for many years, select a revolver and bury it in a cave (even temperature during the daytime) in the high desert (vv low humidity) with a box of ammunition. After fifty years, he felt that it would be fairly likely that the weapon could be loaded and fired without further preparation. In 1980, I myself was given a dozen rounds of .45ACP Tommygun ammunition when I was in the Army that could not be returned to storage. It worked perfectly despite the date on the headstamp of 1944. The ammunition was from Royal Marine Commando stocks sent to RMCS Shrivenham after the Second World War.

I would bet that the actual shelf life of most chemicals would be well in excess of 100 years. Only Noah and Methusalah would need to be careful about rotating their stocks.

P.S. My thanks to the USA for their Tommygun ammo via Lend-Lease.
Colloidal Gold Production / Re: High strength Colloidal Gold (660 ppm)
« Last post by Eugene on January 12, 2021, 05:07:11 AM »
Can you now attest to long term stability? Gel capping?
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10