HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron

[JMAL]

Add the electrolyte and reducing agent to the distilled water.
(Do not add the gelatine until the end, if you are going to use gelatine as a capping agent).

If adding a gelatine capping agent at the end, am I to also to use a reducing agent with the electrolyte during the making process?

Thanks

Yes, make the Colloidal Silver the normal way; if you add the reducing agent at the beginning then that's what you do before gelatine capping at the end of the run.

[FromTheDen]

Thank you @cfnisbet for putting together this excellent summary and simple way to start without a SilverTron!

As new folks start asking questions, the response is often, "Begin by reading the Articles section." I want to emphasize that again. As much as cfnisbet has packed into this post, it is still not a substitute for reading the Articles section.

There you'll find recipes for different versions of colloidal silver, how much reducer to use, and how to make dilute Karo with distilled water. Elsewhere on the forum you can find that it will keep longer if you dilute with vodka instead of distilled water. OK, that may be in the Articles too and I missed it.

Another option for filtering is using a Keurig style reusable basket in a funnel. I suspect the metal screen is not fine enough to catch particles of silver oxide precipitate, but if you're cleaning your electrodes frequently enough, you shouldn't have much of that.

[RedDogJT]

ASSEMBLY


Connect the red (+) pole of the power supply to the mA terminal of the ammeter.

Connect the COM (ground) of the ammeter to the ANODE (+). If the measurement of current displays as a negative value when the ammeter is turned on, swap the leads over at the ammeter.

Connect the CATHODE (-) to the black (-) pole of the Power Supply Unit.

Carefully note that the black wires connect the negative cathode to the black pole of the PSU, and the red wires go from the red pole of the PSU, through the ammeter, to the anode.

Can you do us a big favor?  Can you post a higher resolution picture of this setup so we can see how you've connected the ammeter??

See below, reply #66.

[RedDogJT]

Can you list the pro's and con's of the silver anode?
I notice many like the bars, is that due to the contact surface area, as opposed to the 12 ga silver wires?
I noticed you flattened them, is that to create more surface area?
Does it also relate to the amount of current you want to run through it?

Right now you could not buy a silver bar if your life depended on it.  Scared money is flooding into all precious metals, but the silver 1 oz bars in particular?!

The maximum surface area is required, so a flat sheet is best to make colloidal silver and easiest to fire-clean afterwards. The current that can be used is dependent on the surface area; higher currents need a larger anode area.

Is there any issue inserting the full 12" long 12 ga. silver wire into the beaker but bend it back on itself at the 6" mark, in order to get the most surface area??  Since this design uses a copper cathode, and I purchased a 12" long silver wire, it makes sense to use the whole thing right?

[cfnisbet]

Click on the image to get a better display. If this is still not good enough I will take the photo or a series of photos again.

[RedDogJT]

Thank you sir for trying, but at mere kilobytes it is far to low a resolution to zoom in and see details.

The website has severe limits as to attachments. I will take another few photos tomorrow, and can send these new photos to your email address if you wish.

[cfnisbet]

Herewith photo #1 at max resolution for the website.

[cfnisbet]

Herewith photo #2 at max resolution for the website.

[cfnisbet]

Herewith photo #3 at max resolution for the website.

[Etheric Zone 1111]

 the photos are so much clearer!

What settings should we set our multi-Meters to?

Thanks Ed!

Voltage = max voltage, although it will then automatically drop to compensate for keeping the current up. Current = 5 mA for a silver wire, 15 - 20 mA for any other anode unless it's really big, in which case I go up to about 50 mA for the 1-foot ruler-sized anodes.

[imcool]

Thank you sir for trying, but at mere kilobytes it is far to low a resolution to zoom in and see details.

The website has severe limits as to attachments. I will take another few photos tomorrow, and can send these new photos to your email address if you wish.

you can use www.imgur.com to upload any size photos and it will stay forever, they dont delete it from there.

Thanks. Didn't turn out to be necessary, but I'll remember it for the next time.

[Neofizz]

I use 'irfanview' (ya, I'm old) to compress images. I set to about 87% quality and it comes out using 1/10th the space but is still perfectly clear and full size on screen. And it's great for doing huge batches of photos in one shot as well. Oh, and it's free. 

[Smoke7]

the photos are so much clearer!

What settings should we set our multi-Meters to?

Thanks Ed!

Voltage = max voltage, although it will then automatically drop to compensate for keeping the current up. Current = 5 mA for a silver wire, 15 - 20 mA for any other anode unless it's really big, in which case I go up to about 50 mA for the 1-foot ruler-sized anodes.

I have a similar question too. How many mA should I put to my new silver bar that I received yesterday? I’ve only used rods before.  Another question, about the cathode,  I have some 12 gauge electric copper wire laying around and was going to use it with the silver bar (I know you said there is no difference between silver or copper wire) however I am not sure if it has to be pure copper or if any copper wire will work? Or, should I use silver to be safe since I am not an experienced silver maker (yet) 
Thanks a lot for all your help cfnisbet

If you are talking about a 1 toz silver bullion bar, then 15mA is what I would use. The cathode can be any copper or stainless steel wire.

[imcool]

the photos are so much clearer!

What settings should we set our multi-Meters to?

Thanks Ed!

Voltage = max voltage, although it will then automatically drop to compensate for keeping the current up. Current = 5 mA for a silver wire, 15 - 20 mA for any other anode unless it's really big, in which case I go up to about 50 mA for the 1-foot ruler-sized anodes.

I have a similar question too. How many mA should I put to my new silver bar that I received yesterday? I’ve only used rods before.  Another question, about the cathode,  I have some 12 gauge electric copper wire laying around and was going to use it with the silver bar (I know you said there is no difference between silver or copper wire) however I am not sure if it has to be pure copper or if any copper wire will work? Or, should I use silver to be safe since I am not an experienced silver maker (yet) 
Thanks a lot for all your help cfnisbet

well, here is your answer:

"Time required for 1 liter of 20 ppm Colloidal silver at various constant currents:


Current mA      Time minutes
  3                  100
  5                  60
  6                  50
  10                 30
  15                 20
"

[RedDogJT]

Thanks so much CFNISBET!  Those were much better.  I had the same question as Etheric Zone and imcool, which is one reason I wanted to see those connections.  What would be really cool is if you could do a short video of running a batch and you tweaking the settings based on the mm readings.  That would nail it down solid for me and I'm sure others.  If you not comfortable editing a video, I don't mind doing it for you.  I've got drop box pro, and can host it if you don't like youtube.

Cheers!