Author Topic: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron  (Read 13905 times)

Etheric Zone 1111

  • Guest
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #150 on: April 21, 2020, 10:08:14 PM »
Just powered up the unit with a 9v battery to make sure it’s working .

Offline Smoke7

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 51
  • Likes: 3
  • "A picture is worth 1000 words"
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #151 on: April 21, 2020, 11:02:48 PM »
Just powered up the unit with a 9v battery to make sure it’s working .
Ed,
Take your time to learn this module. It is complicated at first but once you get the hang of it, it is a very cool and useful device for many things. It can store tons of information and you can store multiple different mA in the memory for easy access. One very important thing to remember, do not overpower it, it gets hot and can burn. Make sure there is plenty space behind it (for your task you should be safe by using less than half AMP and 30V power adapter).
P.S This module originally was designed and sold by Banggood, you can find more technical information on their site or their YouTube channel.
   
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Offline Smoke7

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 51
  • Likes: 3
  • "A picture is worth 1000 words"
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #152 on: April 21, 2020, 11:04:46 PM »
Looks perfect. I love those connectors easy to use and always handy.
For future reference DC adapters/power supply, the wire with white line represent positive (+), but it never hurts to double check.   
Yes, this is the normal thing, the white stripe indicates +ve

BUT you need to check, unless it is mentioned on the plug or transformer or elsewhere. I blew a CD player because the wires were the wrong way around.

When I bought a SilverTron, the ideal transformer was easily available from Maplin Electronics, who have unfortunately now gone bust. You can imagine how many times I tested it and checked which way round the polarity was, before I dared to hook one up to my precious SilverTron.
I totally agree. I always double check before using any DC adapters/Charges. I am into remote control airplanes and have tons of lithium polymer batteries, imagine shortening those ;D. Anyways, what exactly is SilverTron? Is it just a power adapter with CC/VC module or is it something special? I was going to build a new generator with 3 way switches instead of a variable potentiometer to control/limit current and just switch on 3mA, 5mA and 15mA. I do have a module that can store up to 10 different settings and can easily program and store into the memory.   

https://www.silvertronstore.com/?page_id=13
Thank you.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Etheric Zone 1111

  • Guest
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #153 on: April 21, 2020, 11:20:42 PM »
Thanks for your  Help, I will only be using it to make my 20ppm Colloidal silver Asper the new tutorial .

I will update once All items arrives .

Ed 
« Last Edit: April 22, 2020, 07:20:58 PM by Etheric Zone 1111 »

Offline Smoke7

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 51
  • Likes: 3
  • "A picture is worth 1000 words"
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #154 on: April 24, 2020, 06:21:30 PM »
I was trying to make something simple and usable for any jar, beaker, or any other container to hold the silver rods that will also be able to lift them up and down and change the distance (length) between the rods for any colloidal sliver you would like to make.
Here is what I came up with.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Offline Smoke7

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 51
  • Likes: 3
  • "A picture is worth 1000 words"
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #155 on: April 24, 2020, 06:22:27 PM »
A simple construction and all the parts I found were just from looking in my garage and basement, where I design and build my R/C airplanes.
The reason I built this from plastic was because I didn’t want any metal to touch the silver rods.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2020, 08:05:31 PM by Smoke7 »
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Offline RedDogJT

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 198
  • Likes: 8
  • Information junkie & autodidact
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #156 on: April 24, 2020, 07:48:09 PM »
Clever design Smoke.  It looks much easier to use and maintain that parallel distances and depths.  Bravo! :D
Nothing is as it seems and nothing is at it appears

Offline Smoke7

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 51
  • Likes: 3
  • "A picture is worth 1000 words"
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #157 on: April 24, 2020, 08:03:39 PM »
Thank you :)
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure"

Offline cfnisbet

  • Administrator
  • Participant
  • *****
  • Posts: 2072
  • Likes: 118
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #158 on: April 24, 2020, 08:05:43 PM »
Yes, nice work, there.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2020, 09:05:56 PM by cfnisbet »

Offline DonSilvio

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 5
  • Likes: 0
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #159 on: April 25, 2020, 02:47:06 AM »
Thank you for putting this guide together. I read everything several times. Lots of familiar things.
I did not see a reference to the amount of Karo to be used... Will be capping with gelatin, using 1oz nugget, working with 1l of water. Any suggestions?

The amount of Karo can vary, some people find that it reduces too fast, but I would start with 0.5ml of Karo and go up to 1ml if necessary, per litre of distilled water.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2020, 10:37:25 AM by cfnisbet »

Offline cfnisbet

  • Administrator
  • Participant
  • *****
  • Posts: 2072
  • Likes: 118
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #160 on: May 03, 2020, 12:45:27 PM »
How do these stones compare to the level of filtering you get from paper coffee filters? I was really struggling to find stones with actual stats on pore size but I got one with 0.5 micron I think. It calculated to 200nm pores and filters pretty quickly.

What is standard for these stones and how do they compare to coffee filters for filtering ability?

Coffee filter papers are far finer. They are therefore much slower. The purpose in filtering is to remove visible particles (like perhaps fine dust or bigger). You will often see small flakes of silver oxide in the colloidal silver, and it is this level of filtration that is necessary. You can do whichever method suits you, but siphoning the colloidal silver out from the production vessel into storage bottles through a air-filtration stone is fast, effective and adequate.

Post moved from among those relating to 3D Printing of Production Vessel Lids; the other posts relating to this subject are now in their own thread, to keep this thread on-topic.

Offline RedDogJT

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 198
  • Likes: 8
  • Information junkie & autodidact
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #161 on: May 05, 2020, 10:30:49 PM »
Can you expand you post about gel capping and HOW to make higher PPM colloidal silver?  It is still not clear on this forum post.

See reply below...
« Last Edit: May 06, 2020, 12:25:15 PM by cfnisbet »
Nothing is as it seems and nothing is at it appears

Offline cfnisbet

  • Administrator
  • Participant
  • *****
  • Posts: 2072
  • Likes: 118
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #162 on: May 06, 2020, 12:24:24 PM »
FOR THE ADVANCED STUDENT: THE MAKING OF 320 PPM COLLOIDAL SILVER & GEL CAPPING TIPS

From Kephra's other posts on the subject:-

A)
I never heat my 20 ppm unless I want to gel cap it.  Normally, it takes less than an hour to fully reduce.  But I use a ml of Karo per liter of colloidal silver.

The best way to gel cap 20 ppm colloidal silver is:
Add 1 gram of gelatin to 8 ounces of colloidal silver.
Let gelatin bloom, then heat enough to melt the gelatin.
Mix well.
This will by your stock gelatin solution.

Then heat your new colloidal silver to the temp required to melt the gelatin (approx 100C)
Add one tablespoon of your stock gelatin to the colloidal silver, and heat for a few minutes.
Stir well.
Let cool.

Done.
Refrigerate the remaining stock gelatin solution.

B)
320 ppm Gelatin Capped Metallic colloidal silver

Warning:  Should be diluted to 20 ppm before use.
250ml cold distilled water
1.0 gram or 1/4 tsp Knox unflavored gelatin
Electrode spacing 1.5 inches
Add 5 drops 1M Sodium Carbonate
Add 15 drops clear Corn Syrup (diluted 1 to 1 with distilled water)
Electrolyze 80 minutes @ 15ma
Constant stirring and heat required.  Heat water to a simmer (about 200F)

C)
GEL CAPPING TIPS

Here are some guidelines for using gelatin to make/cap silver nanoparticles:

An electronic scale, a heated stir plate, and chemical thermometer are recommended.

How much to use:  (based on results with 320 ppm silver batches using Knox brand unflavored gelatin):
Calculate minimum mg of gelatin =   ppm X ml /160
Calculate maximum mg of gelatin = ppm X ml /80

This amount will give good results.  Other members report success with less.  The amount is for Knox brand unflavored gelatin.  Other brands may require a different amount.

For 20 to 40 ppm, add the gelatin after the electrolysis.  For ppm > 40, add the gelatin at the start.
Add the gelatin to the water when cold and let it sit (bloom) for several minutes, then heat it to 60C until the gelatin dissolves, then start the electrolysis for ppm > 40, or just allow to cool if the electrolysis is finished.

For making high ppm (greater than 40 ppm)  the gelatin should be in the water during the electrolysis.

      Always add the gelatin to cold distilled water by sprinkling the powder on top so that there are no clumps.
      Let the gelatin soak for 5 minutes or longer to absorb water before applying heat.
      Apply stirring if you have a stirring device.
      Apply heat so the mixture warms up slowly, allowing all the gelatin to dissolve.  60C (140F) is sufficient.
      Keep the temperature of the solution above 140F/60C minimum to 190F/88C.  Avoid boiling to prevent excess evaporation.
      Use the appropriate amount of reducing agent (based on water volume and ppm) IE: 4 to 5 drops diluted corn syrup for 1 cup of 320 ppm colloidal silver (ppm*milliliters/16000).
      Use the appropriate amount of electrolyte (based only on water volume at 20 drops 1M sodium carbonate per liter)  IE: 4 to 5 drops for 1 cup of 320 ppm colloidal silver
      Reduction is much slower with gelatin in the water, so the solution must be kept warm for some time after the electrolysis is complete for the color change to occur indicating full reduction.
      Gelatin capped colloidal silver will be darker in color due to the weight of the gelatin dragging on the surface electrons of the particles.

D)
Alternate Method for 20 and 40 ppm colloidal silver:
Make gelatin solution by dissolving 1 gram of gelatin in 250ml of water or 20 ppm colloidal silver, and heat until dissolved.
Add an appropriate amount of this solution (try 1 teaspoon for each 250ml/cup of warm (140F) colloidal silver and allow to stand and cool for at least an hour.

These guides are based on experiments by Kephra and RickinWI and are suggested as a starting point, and may not be optimum.  However following these guides will result in quality colloidal silver nanoparticles.
Store unused gelatin in the refrigerator, and replace frequently to avoid spoilage.

Karo can be diluted with vodka.
'cold' means room temperature.  Allow a few minutes for gelatin to bloom.
Heat to temperature before starting electrolysis.

E)
From GOTOGUY's other posts on the subject:-

This is the methodology that i have came up with, which seems to be working very well hopefully this helps you out. one side note though I am working with large amounts [4500ml to be exact] so my methods take this into account and but maybe it will still help answer your questions I will try to be as detailed as possible. . .

--1] I preheat my 2 half gallon mason jars and a 3/4 [750ML] quart jar in a slow cooker. This gets the temp to about 145[this save the microwave ALOT OF WORK]  .  I then put the to half gallon jars in the microwave for about 20-30 minutes to get to about 195-200. .      now I have my 750ml of prewarmed water  and my 250ml pre mixture. . . . [my pre mixture is about 250ml of  "cold" room temp water with the electrolyte and karo in it but no gelatin]
--2] I then add the the premixture aka [250ml cool water] plus the prewarmed [750ml] 145 temp water to the 4500ml beaker making it 1liter full .
The first time I tried adding gelatin to cool water it failed miserably and globbed up everywhere, So im not exactly sure where the cool water comes in BUT from my experience gelatin does not mix well in cool water or even medium water, from my experience  it seems best arround 170 or hotter to completely dissolve. NOTE: for me I have to SLOWLY add the gelatin to to my hot warming up liter, while under high 1500rpm stir and under max heat. Adding it all at once results in globbing up adding it when to cold results in it globbing up. . .  when its all added allow to it to continue to stir on max stir and heat my half gallons are still reaching temp . I then temporarily stop the stir and check the clarity to make sure its ALL DISSOLVED.  Since this seems globbing up has been a occasional issue. . .[I've brewed about 7 gallons of 320 so far] Once all good I start stirr again and at this point the water is about 180 and my half gallons are at about 195-200 in the microwave
--3] I now add the scorching hot half gallons to the mix [this makes me so nervous, moving that heavy scorching hot jar from the microwave to the table]
Once my the half gallons are added the whole 4500ml is around 190-195 [Ideal temp is 200 but for me thats hard to reach since its so much water, but i occasional do, my temp always stays between 190 and 200 threw the whole run
--4]I now start my electrolysis for me that is 2 hours and 44 minutes at a 130ma[this is not a normal ma, but I have very large anode]I  then put a box over the beaker to keep it dark [kephra wrote an article on how light alters particle size and its best to have no light or red light to keep smallest particles] I also have it on a count down outlet timer to time the batch just right. . . .
2hours 44 minutes later im all done. . .   


I'm not sure if its the best practice but it seems to be working well for me so far. Im still confused the cold water transition to hot water part and at what tif there is a specific order to add/start each process but it seems to be working well so far. . .

Offline Turbidaceous

  • Participant
  • **
  • Posts: 431
  • Likes: 1
  • Living in the UK
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #163 on: May 06, 2020, 03:53:49 PM »
What's this about karo reducing too fast? Too fast? What is the difference between fast and slow and what is the impact of "too fast"?

Offline wgpeters

  • Kephra's other account
  • Expert
  • Participant
  • ***
  • Posts: 634
  • Likes: 75
    • SilverTron Support
Re: HOW TO MAKE COLLOIDAL SILVER if you can't get a SilverTron
« Reply #164 on: May 06, 2020, 04:52:20 PM »
What's this about karo reducing too fast? Too fast? What is the difference between fast and slow and what is the impact of "too fast"?
It doesn't happen.  I've used Karo in various amounts, hot and cold, and its always worked perfectly.
Other brands may act differently because they use different combinations of sugars.
A person's worth is solely determined by what he does for others.